Full hands: customize the pattern

Changing a Burda pattern is easy! This time we will tell you how to do it if you have full hands.

So that you do not sting the sleeves, the pattern of the jacket or blouse should be adjusted to the circumference of the upper part of the arm.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW
■ In Burda patterns, the sleeve overhang always matches the armhole. Therefore, it would be fundamentally wrong to adjust the sleeve width by simply increasing the seam allowances. It is necessary to make changes to the pattern itself.
■ Basic rule: do not measure the paper pattern, but compare your own measure of the girth of the upper part of the arm with the corresponding data in the size chart provided on our website or in the Appendix with the instructions in the magazine.
■ Change the sleeve pattern by as many centimeters as the girth of the upper part of your arm differs from the girth shown in the table for your size. How to do this, read below in the STEP BY STEP section.

Fig. 1 On the sleeve pattern, mark the auxiliary lines - first in the vertical, then in the horizontal directions.
Fig. 2 Cut the pattern along the marked lines, push the upper halves to the missing number of centimeters
EASY RECEPTION - EXCELLENT RESULT
FITTING SLEEVE PATTERN
STEP BY STEP
■ On the sleeve pattern, mark a vertical support line: from the transverse mark on the okat to the bottom cut parallel to the direction arrow of the shared thread (= along the entire length at the same distance from it).Then draw a horizontal reference line as shown infig. 1.
Important: the horizontal line must pass strictly at right angles to the vertical.
■ First, cut the pattern in a vertical line - from the bottom cut up, slightly not reaching the cut of the okat. Then, on both sides of it - horizontally, without reaching the side sections.
■ Under the pattern, put a paper strip and the upper halves of the pattern, expand by the desired number of centimeters (fig. 2).
Pic 3 Connect the halves of the pattern at the bottom, mark a new line of direction of the shared thread.
Fig. 4 For a two-seam sleeve, changes are made to the pattern of its upper part.
■ To keep the width of the sleeve along the lower cut the same, connect the lower halves, the sections of the horizontal cuts will be shifted, and the upper and lower parts of the halves will overlap each other. It is important that they face each other on both sides to the same width. Align the broken line of the lower cut and mark the direction arrow of the shared thread exactly in the middle of the allowance made (fig. 3).
■ Correction of a pattern of a two-seam sleeve is carried out according to the same principle, but it applies only to a pattern of its upper part, the bottom remains unchanged (fig. 4).
Drawings: Heidemar Tengler-Stadelmeier; Elke Trier-Schäfer; Anastasios Vulgaris.
Materials prepared by Elena Karpova