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Behind this English term is not just one of the trends in the fashion world, but a much more complex phenomenon that is being talked about more and more often.
As this often happens, there is no suitable translation of the well-known phrase dress dressing into Russian. But, perhaps, we will not sin too much against the truth if we give an approximate version of it: “a wardrobe of a strong woman” or “a dressing style that demonstrates strength”.What is power dressing?
The word "power", embedded in this term, clearly hints that we are talking about power, leadership positions, politics, and this is true.
Photo: Yves Saint Laurent
Power dressing was first discussed in the 70-80s of the last century, when the books by John Molloy “Clothing for Success” and “Women: Clothing for Success” were published, in which the author proposed the concept of gender orientation of a professional dress code.
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The main target audience of Molloy was a completely new layer of young ambitious women who began to occupy positions in traditionally male fields. It was to them that the author proposed a kind of “uniform”, a dressing style that would help them achieve respect and authority in the workplace.
Photo: Burda 1989, 1987
This dress code was a kind of rethinking of a conservative business men's wardrobe and included trouser suits indistinguishable from men's jackets with shoulder pads, turtlenecks, but at the same time assigned a special role to a midi-length skirt. In a sense, we can say that the upper part of the wardrobe sought to eliminate the slightest hint of a female form, the chest was deliberately leveled by oversize, but the skirt was designed to remind of gender, without turning power dressing into an indefinite unisex.
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Photo: Armani
Moreover, Molloy included feminine accessories in the “strong woman’s wardrobe”, although floral and floral prints were strongly not welcomed - instead, they should choose polka dots, stripes or a goose foot.As for the color scheme, as one would expect, the list of favorites included neutral cool tones: blue, black, gray, khaki and the like.
Coco again
Photo: ChanelWell, of course, the all-knowing John Molloy was not a pioneer, he only caught what Coco Chanel had no less clearly articulated before him in the twenties! Suffice it to recall her skirt suit, consisting of a narrow midi skirt and a collarless jacket - this is the real embodiment of power dressing, combining both the features of a man’s wardrobe and restrained femininity, ideal for a business style.Photo: Chanel
According to fashion historians, a Chanel costume performed the same function that power dressing has today: it allowed women to defeminize their image in the struggle for professional equality with men.
Power dressing today
We all know much more style icons from power dressing than it might seem at first glance: Jacqueline Kennedy, Margaret Thatcher, Michelle Obama, Hillary Clinton, Angela Merkel, Brigitte Macron and many, many others! They not only embody all the main features of the “imperious style” in their wardrobe, but also set trends - for example, last year’s crazy popularity of the crimson color “Grenadines” would not have happened if it hadn’t been for women politicians, in particular, the same Hillary Clinton, once again made active red a symbol of energy and future changes.
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However, if you move away from politics, an ordinary woman today does not need to put on a shapeless trouser suit for the sake of only male colleagues deigning to take her business qualities seriously. The business dress code has long absorbed femininity in the broad sense of the word, but at the same time power dressing has been and remains a very popular trend - not as the only chance to express oneself, but as a conscious choice in favor of business neutrality in the best sense of the word.
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