Even if you sincerely love fashion, the name of Jeanne Pakin may be completely unfamiliar to you. We are in a hurry to fill the gap! Indeed, without her, fashion would not be what we know today.
Despite the fact that many famous female names are inscribed in the history of fashion, not everyone has heard about Jeanne Paken. She was years ahead of such prominent twentieth-century female fashion designers as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel, becoming the first woman to open her own fashion house.
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Jeanne Pakin, nee Jeanne Marie-Charlotte Beckers, was born in 1869 in the northern suburbs of Paris, in the family of a doctor. She began to study sewing as a teenager in a small atelier, and after a few years she was able to get a place in the Ruff fashion house, famous for its exquisite day dresses. A talented craftswoman quickly went from a simple seamstress to the head of an atelier.
And in 1891, she married Isidore Rene Jacob Paken, by the way, a very successful businessman who also owned a men's clothing store inherited from his parents. In the same year, Jeanne renamed the family business into the Paquin fashion house, where she became the chief designer, entrusting her husband with financial management.
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Madame Paken and her dresses
Jeanne Paken adored dresses and created them for any occasion and in a wide variety of styles: luxurious evening dresses in pastel colors in the spirit of the eighteenth century, bright dresses in oriental style, extravagant dressing gowns, exquisite day dresses, and many, many others. She paid special attention to the play of light and colors, masterfully combining ribbons, embroidery, appliqués, sequins and beads. With the enthusiasm of a true artist, she layered fabrics: furs over pastel satin, chiffon over costume fabric.
Very quickly, her shining and sparkling outfits won the hearts of the fashionable public - in the luxurious salon of the fashion house Paquin, the voices of the visitors waiting for the fitting never ceased. And among them there were not only rich secular ladies, but also aristocrats and representatives of monarchist dynasties!
Fashion house customers await fitting, Creative Commons Already in the first decade of its existence, the fashion house, under the leadership of the Paken spouses, opened overseas branches in world capitals, from London to Madrid. And this was a real breakthrough, because before that not a single fashion house in Paris had succeeded in anything like it!
Picture by Henri Gervais, "Five hours in the house of Paken" Moreover, not a single fashion house had previously provided their outfits for sale in department stores, but Jeanne Paken was sure that high fashion should not only be art in the broad sense of the word (she actively collaborated with artists, architects and decorators), but also art accessible to all comers.
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Keeping up with the times
With no less certainty than the famous Coco Chanel, Jeanne Paken moved towards a comfortable and modern fashion for women. Despite the fact that in her designs the influence of the fashion of the past was very clearly felt, she strove for change. For example, it was she who started offering skirts and dresses that were convenient for traveling on public transport, which became extremely popular with working women, and also came up with a dress with drapery, which was perfect for both day out and evening.
Especially famous was the collection of 1914 under the name "Tango", which made a coup in high fashion.As the name suggests, the idea of style arose thanks to the general enthusiasm for Argentine tango that reigned at that time: cuts were hidden on the sides of the dress, hidden under the folds, which gave special freedom of movement during the dance, while maintaining an elegant narrow silhouette. This style has become a mark and a timely alternative to the so-called "lame skirts" of Paul Poiret - so narrow that they could only be moved in small steps.
Ahead of her time, Jeanne came up with convenient outfits for motorists, although before the mass popularity of driving among ladies there were still many years. She also developed outfits for sports and hunting, introducing in them the inherent grace and style.
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First among the first
Zhanna Paken managed to become the first in so many aspects that it is impossible not to be surprised: she not only became the first woman to open her own fashion house, but also the first of the female fashion designers to be awarded the Legion of Honor. She was the first to come up with collaborations, creating dresses based on sketches of artists, the first to send girls ambassadors to the light - fashion models appeared at various events in her dresses, demonstrating lively the splendor of a fashion house to a rich public. And the first Zhanna Paken began to use musical accompaniment during her fashion shows!
You must admit that such an innovation cannot but surprise - and this despite the fact that Jeanne herself was distinguished by modesty, generosity and justice: for example, together with her husband, they purchased a chic villa specifically so that employees of her fashion house could go there on vacation.
After the sudden and too early death of her husband, Jeanne Paken headed her fashion house until 1920, inspiring not only her clients, but also a new generation of female fashion designers - for example, the famous Madeleine Vionne practiced at Paquin London!
In 1953, the company merged with the Worth fashion house, and in 1956 it was closed, having outlived its founder for twenty years. Thus ended the story of home and great talent that forever changed the fashion industry.
Photo: Creative Commons
