Creation

Floral Fabrics

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It is a profound mistake to think that only summer dresses are sewn from them. Woolen skirts, trousers and jackets (the latter for men) and even fur coats - flowers are appropriate everywhere!

Christian Dior said: "After a woman, flowers are the most beautiful thing that the Lord gave to the world." Inspired by the masterpieces of Monet and Degas, the designer wanted to convey the harmony of nature with the help of floral motifs on his dresses. Thus, he returned to fashion flowers forgotten against the background of constructivism in art and depression after the Second World War.
But once upon a time fabrics with floral patterns were considered an indicator of status. Only wealthy, powerful people, kings and princes could afford them. Such fabrics originate in Asia and the Middle East. In the Middle Ages, merchants brought them to Europe, and soon the Italian weavers managed to copy this miracle.
The Industrial Revolution made beautiful fabrics accessible to everyone and led to a real boom in colors: they showed off on dresses, underwear, home textiles, wallpaper and utensils. The floral theme reached its peak in the modern era. But even today, floral patterns do not lose popularity and remain primarily where we like it so much - on fabrics.
SEWING from fabrics with patterns, including floral, has its own characteristics. Each drawing on the fabric has a rapport, i.e., the repeatability of the theme.The scale of the rapport can be different, sometimes it is clearly expressed, sometimes the repeatability of the pattern is almost invisible. When starting different parts, you should make sure that the rapport on the finished product is combined, for example, on the armholes and rounds of the sleeves, on the side seams, on the right and left yoke shelves, etc. Moreover, this must be done regardless of whether it is static or dynamic a pattern on fabric (a pattern with a diagonal direction is called dynamic).
■ In addition, floral patterns on the fabric can be background, coupon and border. Backgrounds fill the entire canvas with certain repeating shapes. The background image may be densely located on the surface of the fabric or be rarely scattered over it. The coupon drawing highlights a specific topic, as a rule, not repeating itself on a particular part of the clothing or on the entire product. The border pattern serves to accentuate certain parts of the dress, forming wide striking stripes.
■ Depending on the type of patterns, they may be more or less difficult to sew. Light drawings are miniature, small and medium sizes, completely filling the background. Difficult drawings - having top and bottom, coupon and border. When purchasing fabrics with a difficult pattern, always add consumption to the meter when cutting to combine the pattern on adjacent parts. If the pattern rapport is so large that only one topic fits on one model, this should also be taken into account when buying fabric. Determine in advance where such a rapport will be located (for example, exactly in the middle of the front).
■ Keep in mind that a large pattern in certain areas (on the protruding points of the chest, in the hips) can visually distort the figure. In addition, the figure should not break off along the bottom line.
■ On printed fabrics (usually on such fabrics on the front side, the pattern is brighter and clearer, and the surface of the fabric is smoother and slightly shiny), such finish as embossed seams, wedges is not very expressive. Drapery, in general, is best performed only on plain-dyed fabrics (fabrics uniformly colored on the front and back sides). Drapery on fabrics with a very fine printed pattern is almost invisible.
By the way, the best addition to floral patterns is the noble shine of gold, the sparkle of stones, and deep colors.
PHOTO: VISUM (1); GETTY IMAGES (1); SHUTTERSTOCK (1); CATWALKPIX.COM (2); PRISMA (1); PR.
Models from the collections of MILAVITSA, CHRISTIAN DIOR, VALENTINO,
ANNA SUI, BLUGIRL, DKNY, CAROLINA HERRERA, DOLCE & GABBANO, DRIES VAN NOTEN, GIVENCHY, CAVALLI, OSCAR DE LA RENTA, ROCHAS, TOM FORD, TSUMORI CHISATO, VERSACE, actress Kim Novak.
The material was prepared by Elena Karpova.

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